Last week, I was teaching in the Virginia Beach area and decided, since I was already more than halfway there, that I would make a visit to MakeShaper's headquarters in Sanford, NC. I like to get to know the people behind the products that we use and talk about in this blog. I expected a find evidence of a commitment to quality. But, nothing could prepared me for the lengths to which MakeShaper is making to ensure THE highest quality is delivered to their filament customers.
A Tour to Remember
While I can't discuss all the steps that I saw being taken to produce the highest quality product, I can say that they even go so far as to build their own proprietary machinery if that is what it takes to better their peers.\
MakeShaper is a division of Static Control Components, which began in a garage about 30 years ago. They sure have come a long way since then. The facility, which creates 2D printer cartridges as well as the 3D filament that are of interest to us is absolutely massive! Touring the facility is not only enlightening, it's exhausting for an old guy. But, it was well worth it.
Resilience and Perseverance on a Grand Scale
And, speaking of old guys, one of the most impressive aspects of the tour came in the form of a piece of art and a photograph memorializing a day that could have been the end of Static Control Components (SCC). In April of 2011 multiple tornadoes touched down in Sanford and decimated SCC's facilities. The founder of SCC was 75 at the time and the damage was so severe that many though he simply might walk away. But, he did not. They were contacting customers and shipping product in days. Please read this story and view the images of the devastation.
Here is a link to a news video that is well worth visiting if you want to understand the company's character.
MakeShaper for 1st and 2nd Gen Cube & CubePro - More to come
The Makeshaper division is relatively young when compared to the age of parent organization. So, their product line is still growing. We saw 3D printers of virtually every make and model being used to develop and test new products. The current filament choices available for the 1st and 2nd Cube and CubePro are limited to Red, Green, Blue, Black & White in PLA and ABS. But, I expect that more choices will be forthcoming after extensive testing.
More than Just Filament
Joining me on this visit was Jeff Epps of the Richmond County school system just miles from MakeShaper's headquarters. A good deal of the time of the visit was devoted to talking about how 3D design and printing can literally change lives of at-risk students. Both of us came away impressed by what we heard from MakeShaper's management.
They 'get it'.
So, I don't expect that this meeting will be the last time we meet together to talk about our common goals in the communities in which we serve.
Bottom Line for 1st and 2nd Gen Cube & CubePro Owners.
The reason why I made the trip was to see if I could find evidence as to the steps MakeShaper was taking to ensure that we could trust their products in our printers. I came away feeling that they are striving to be the manufacturer of THE most reliable filament available.
The comprehensive testing is there. In fact, the level of testing is so much higher than the industry norm that I cannot even write about it in detail.
The construction is there. Every cartridge contains a bag of moisture protection INSIDE the cartridge for continuous protection. The moisture protection bags are much heavier for additional storage protection.
The price is there. Currently a 2nd Gen Cartridge is just $25 with free shipping for orders over $50.
So, I would urge you to consider trying MakeShaper. And, let me know what you think. After all, the real testing is in YOUR hands. Only you can attest that the MakeShaper alternative is right for Cube owners. But, I trust you will find my assessment to match your own.
MakeShaper Store
Let me know....
Showing posts with label Cube cartridge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cube cartridge. Show all posts
Tuesday, June 28, 2016
Wednesday, June 15, 2016
Great News for 2nd Gen Cube and CubePro Owners
I was recently sent a cartridge that fits the 2nd Gen Cube. It came from a company called MakeShaper in North Carolina.
I agreed to test a cartridge and those test have been completed.
Here is the result:
The first thing i noticed was that the moisture protection bag in which it is contained was much heftier than I am used to seeing. I have had absolutely no problems with the cartridge. Where it differs from the OEM version is that (1) it is held together with screws (T-10 Star) making it very easy to open and (2) it contains a pack of moisture protection tucked inside the cartridge. Nice!
The cartridges for the 2nd Gen Cube are just $25. And, those for the CubePro are just $65. I have not tested the CubePro version. But, at that price is sure looks like it's worth exploring.
The available colors in either PLA or ABS are:
By the way, I failed to mention that they offer free shipping on orders over $50.
Cartridges can also be ordered by phone... 919-776-6925.
I agreed to test a cartridge and those test have been completed.
Here is the result:
 | |
| Test Print Using the MakeShaper Filament Cartridge |
The cartridges for the 2nd Gen Cube are just $25. And, those for the CubePro are just $65. I have not tested the CubePro version. But, at that price is sure looks like it's worth exploring.
The available colors in either PLA or ABS are:
- Red
- Blue
- Green
- Black
- White
By the way, I failed to mention that they offer free shipping on orders over $50.
Cartridges can also be ordered by phone... 919-776-6925.
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
The Care and Feeding of the Cube 3D Printer (Video)
I've been wanting to create some better videos about the Cube 3D printer, itself. This is the first attempt in that direction.
I have received a number of emails from users that have described this or that issue they've had with their Cube printer. Some have had clogged heads and others have asked about the using the CubeStick glue to best effect. This video covers the following topics...
Setting the Head Gap
Nothing will clog a 3D printer faster than when the print jet is hitting the print bed. Yet, we need a very small gap to ensure that the first layer of filament is properly laid down on the print bed. A TWO STEP process for setting the gap is demonstrated along with the paper I've found that works the best for me.
Applying CubeStick
One of the most challenging thing for me, when going to the new 2nd Generation Cube from the 1st Generation Cube was the different behaviors of the two different glues. The first generation Cube used a heat activated glue and, frankly, was a LOT easier to use both before, during and after the print job.
I found that I was having a LOT of trouble getting parts to stick immediately after I'd cleaned the print bed. And, I didn't realize that by trying to solve the problem by applying thicker coats of glue only resulted in transferring glue to the little rubber cap over the print jet... essentially gluing the flowing filament to the cap and not the bed.
Finding the proper gap helped. But, finding a more reliable system for applying the CubeStick was the real solution.
A Tip When Changing Cartridges
For a long time, I created some problems for myself because I did not understand the correct timing for pulling on the filament when removing it to change cartridges. When the Cube team explained the steps of the process that the Cube takes when removing filament, I came up with a visual clue for myself that allowed me to more easily go with the flow when removing filament. The result is no more instances of broken filament inside the print jet!
The Correct Way to Insert the Cartridge
While teaching a 3D printing class at Freestate Challenge Academy, we had two different instances where the little metal contacts in the cartridge slot were broken as the student loaded cartridges. From this experience, we learned two things. (1) The correct process for inserting the cartridge and (2) how to solder in replacement contacts. We will show the latter later. But, for now, this video demonstrates the SAFE way to insert new cartridges to avoid the potential for breaking the contacts.
The Video...
This is the first of the videos that I hope to bring you regarding the Cube 3D Printer, itself. As will be clear, I do not write a script. So, you will hear some obvious errors... such as when I talk about lowering the head when I really mean the bed. But, I'm trusting that the information is useful enough that you will forgive my slips here and there. I have to do these videos and tutorials in the limited time that I have to do them. So, perfection is NOT an option. :)
I have made the difficult decision to use the YouTube "Monetize" option to help offset the costs of the investment required to bring a higher quality of videos to you. I know that it's annoying. But, hopefully you will find some of the products and services advertised useful enough to click on at least some the ads.
That investment, by the way, included a new Panasonic HC-X920 video camera and new LED 100WA-56 / LED 200WA-56 lights. I mention this because these products have only recently been introduced and some of my fellow members of the DPReview forums have expressed an interest in seeing how well they perform.
If you have the bandwidth, try viewing the video in HD 1080p, to see why I feel that investment was well worth it. I love this combination!
Well... with that said... here is my first 2nd Generation Cube video!
I have received a number of emails from users that have described this or that issue they've had with their Cube printer. Some have had clogged heads and others have asked about the using the CubeStick glue to best effect. This video covers the following topics...
Setting the Head Gap
Nothing will clog a 3D printer faster than when the print jet is hitting the print bed. Yet, we need a very small gap to ensure that the first layer of filament is properly laid down on the print bed. A TWO STEP process for setting the gap is demonstrated along with the paper I've found that works the best for me.
Applying CubeStick
One of the most challenging thing for me, when going to the new 2nd Generation Cube from the 1st Generation Cube was the different behaviors of the two different glues. The first generation Cube used a heat activated glue and, frankly, was a LOT easier to use both before, during and after the print job.
I found that I was having a LOT of trouble getting parts to stick immediately after I'd cleaned the print bed. And, I didn't realize that by trying to solve the problem by applying thicker coats of glue only resulted in transferring glue to the little rubber cap over the print jet... essentially gluing the flowing filament to the cap and not the bed.
Finding the proper gap helped. But, finding a more reliable system for applying the CubeStick was the real solution.
A Tip When Changing Cartridges
For a long time, I created some problems for myself because I did not understand the correct timing for pulling on the filament when removing it to change cartridges. When the Cube team explained the steps of the process that the Cube takes when removing filament, I came up with a visual clue for myself that allowed me to more easily go with the flow when removing filament. The result is no more instances of broken filament inside the print jet!
The Correct Way to Insert the Cartridge
While teaching a 3D printing class at Freestate Challenge Academy, we had two different instances where the little metal contacts in the cartridge slot were broken as the student loaded cartridges. From this experience, we learned two things. (1) The correct process for inserting the cartridge and (2) how to solder in replacement contacts. We will show the latter later. But, for now, this video demonstrates the SAFE way to insert new cartridges to avoid the potential for breaking the contacts.
The Video...
This is the first of the videos that I hope to bring you regarding the Cube 3D Printer, itself. As will be clear, I do not write a script. So, you will hear some obvious errors... such as when I talk about lowering the head when I really mean the bed. But, I'm trusting that the information is useful enough that you will forgive my slips here and there. I have to do these videos and tutorials in the limited time that I have to do them. So, perfection is NOT an option. :)
I have made the difficult decision to use the YouTube "Monetize" option to help offset the costs of the investment required to bring a higher quality of videos to you. I know that it's annoying. But, hopefully you will find some of the products and services advertised useful enough to click on at least some the ads.
That investment, by the way, included a new Panasonic HC-X920 video camera and new LED 100WA-56 / LED 200WA-56 lights. I mention this because these products have only recently been introduced and some of my fellow members of the DPReview forums have expressed an interest in seeing how well they perform.
If you have the bandwidth, try viewing the video in HD 1080p, to see why I feel that investment was well worth it. I love this combination!
Well... with that said... here is my first 2nd Generation Cube video!
Wednesday, August 8, 2012
Shaping the Filament Tip for Loading
It is relatively important to shape the tip of the filament correctly before loading in any 3D printer. The filament for the Cube is no exception. Mike asked how I do this. So, I thought I would mention several ways one can shape the tip correctly.
Since I'd had a 3D printer before the Cube, I'd already found ways to shape the end of filament using several different tools.
Flush Cutters
A micro flush cutter is a small cutting tool with cutting surface that is flat on one side. This makes for a very clean cut. Rio, a supplier of jewelry tools and supplies sells many varieties.
Right out of college, my daughter set up a well equipped jewelry studio in our home. It's still here. As it became clear that shaping the tip of filament was important, I had a lot of tool choices close at hand. Flush cutters will work. But, it takes several cuts at different angles.
Nail Emery Board
The least expensive option is a simple emery board normally used to shape nails.
ABS filament is relatively soft and shapes very well. For under $2.00 you usually can buy a set of boards with several different grits.
Dremel Sanding Wheel
Few tools are as versatile as a Dremel rotary tool. This is my tool of choice in shaping the end of the filament before loading into either of my 3D printers.
The grinding stone attachment makes short work of shaping ABS plastic.. But, a light touch is a must. Otherwise, it will melt the plastic. Light touches as you go around the tip tip on all sides does the job very, very well. Sanding wheels would also work well.
Obviously, these aren't the only ways to get the job done. But, they represent 3 different approaches that I know work.
Since I'd had a 3D printer before the Cube, I'd already found ways to shape the end of filament using several different tools.
Flush Cutters
A micro flush cutter is a small cutting tool with cutting surface that is flat on one side. This makes for a very clean cut. Rio, a supplier of jewelry tools and supplies sells many varieties.
 |
| Micro Flush Cutter |
Right out of college, my daughter set up a well equipped jewelry studio in our home. It's still here. As it became clear that shaping the tip of filament was important, I had a lot of tool choices close at hand. Flush cutters will work. But, it takes several cuts at different angles.
Nail Emery Board
The least expensive option is a simple emery board normally used to shape nails.
 |
| Emery Board |
ABS filament is relatively soft and shapes very well. For under $2.00 you usually can buy a set of boards with several different grits.
Dremel Sanding Wheel
Few tools are as versatile as a Dremel rotary tool. This is my tool of choice in shaping the end of the filament before loading into either of my 3D printers.
 |
| Dremel Rotary Tool with Grinding Stone |
The grinding stone attachment makes short work of shaping ABS plastic.. But, a light touch is a must. Otherwise, it will melt the plastic. Light touches as you go around the tip tip on all sides does the job very, very well. Sanding wheels would also work well.
Obviously, these aren't the only ways to get the job done. But, they represent 3 different approaches that I know work.
Thursday, August 2, 2012
Saving Filament While Keeping Strength
Earlier, we posted an article about creating a rack to hold Cube cartridges.
One of the design goals was to reduce the amount of filament required to print the rack. The design worked very well. But, it wasn't quite as strong as it could be. So, a second design goal was added... maximum strength.
We came up with two more designs for the Cube Rack that met the need for saving filament using holes in the rack and yet also met the criteria for maximum strength.
The first design used holes similar to those of design #1. But, this time the holes where shorter and arranged in an offset pattern that provided more lateral support.
The design not only worked beautifully; but, ended up being very strong and pleasing. Here is the printed version of the above design. I printed both of the new racks on my RapMan 3.2 because I'd loaned my Cube 3D Printer to Peyton Duncan. And, that is why the raft is evident. On the Cube, I would print this without a raft for a cleaner look. Neither printer requires supports for any of the rack designs.
So, now that we demonstrated that we can reduce filament and keep strength, it was time to try to reduce filament even more. That gave me the opportunity to test a completely different approach. Instead of cutting holes completely through the wall, this time the design used a lattice of holes that only went half way through the wall adjacent to an offset pattern of holes on the other half of the wall.
This design allowed for larger holes while still meeting the strength design criteria. Plus, it turned out to be a very pleasing look. Here is the printed version.
The secret to the strength lies in the fact that each hole is supported both laterally and vertically by the wall of an offset hole. This lattice design is surprisingly strong and probably saves the most filament. Overall, it is my preferred design.
Here is a video that explains the process using Moment of Inspiration...
All of the designs will be up on the Cubify Store site at the minimum allowable cost.
Word of Warning
Both of the new designs print with increased noise and time. The printer must print small features and then jump over the hole to the next small feature. This means that it's not laying down a nice continuous layer of filament. So, you may want to print them in a area where the noise won't affect others. It's well worth the extra noise and slight additional time. But, it's something that you need to consider when choosing which design you will download.
 |
| Cube Rack - Initial Design |
One of the design goals was to reduce the amount of filament required to print the rack. The design worked very well. But, it wasn't quite as strong as it could be. So, a second design goal was added... maximum strength.
We came up with two more designs for the Cube Rack that met the need for saving filament using holes in the rack and yet also met the criteria for maximum strength.
The first design used holes similar to those of design #1. But, this time the holes where shorter and arranged in an offset pattern that provided more lateral support.
 |
| New Rack Design #1 - Offset Holes |
The design not only worked beautifully; but, ended up being very strong and pleasing. Here is the printed version of the above design. I printed both of the new racks on my RapMan 3.2 because I'd loaned my Cube 3D Printer to Peyton Duncan. And, that is why the raft is evident. On the Cube, I would print this without a raft for a cleaner look. Neither printer requires supports for any of the rack designs.
 |
| New Rack #1 - Printed Version |
So, now that we demonstrated that we can reduce filament and keep strength, it was time to try to reduce filament even more. That gave me the opportunity to test a completely different approach. Instead of cutting holes completely through the wall, this time the design used a lattice of holes that only went half way through the wall adjacent to an offset pattern of holes on the other half of the wall.
 |
| New Rack Design #2 - Lattice |
This design allowed for larger holes while still meeting the strength design criteria. Plus, it turned out to be a very pleasing look. Here is the printed version.
 |
| New Rack #3 - Printed Version |
The secret to the strength lies in the fact that each hole is supported both laterally and vertically by the wall of an offset hole. This lattice design is surprisingly strong and probably saves the most filament. Overall, it is my preferred design.
Here is a video that explains the process using Moment of Inspiration...
All of the designs will be up on the Cubify Store site at the minimum allowable cost.
Word of Warning
Both of the new designs print with increased noise and time. The printer must print small features and then jump over the hole to the next small feature. This means that it's not laying down a nice continuous layer of filament. So, you may want to print them in a area where the noise won't affect others. It's well worth the extra noise and slight additional time. But, it's something that you need to consider when choosing which design you will download.
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